Tag Archives: risotto

Wild Mushroom Risotto (Risotto ai Funghi)

Mushroom Risotto in bowlWild Mushroom Risotto

The other night in culinary class we began the first of two days of lessons focusing on Italian cooking.  It was also the second day in which I had to work solo in the class, as I was the last one to arrive, having spent some extra time at the career fair that took place at the school that afternoon.  If there was any lesson where I didn’t exactly mind being left to cook on my own without a partner (usually, we work in teams of two), this one was it.

Among the things we prepared that evening were an Italian meat sauce (to be crystal clear, it was not a ragù alla bolognese) and a Wild Mushroom Risotto.  After I had presented the latter dish to the chef instructor for his review and comment, he said it was fine, that he was happy with the results (whew, as I’ve only been making risotto for something like 20 years at this point).

Chopped mushrooms

He would, however, have liked to have seen it a little more fluid on the plate.  I tend to make my risottos on the drier side, having been served some extra-soupy, gloopy versions in the past, which I find completely disgusting and almost inedible.  There was plenty left for me to take home after the plating, but I added my batch to the collection that was being taken by the class of all of our risottos.  Tonight, we’re going to use up the leftovers by making arancini, at least that’s the plan. [Note: We didn’t make arancini that next class night, which was kind of a shame, as I really love them.]

Well, guess what I ended up really, really craving yesterday for lunch?  Yep, another dish of the Wild Mushroom Risotto that I had prepared on Wednesday night.  So, I decided to whip up a batch at home, adding some thyme to it, which I thought it needed for a more Fall/Autumn fragrance.  I also amped up the amount of mushrooms and opted, in the end, to leave out the goat cheese that I’d originally planned to use, as the risotto didn’t really seem to need it.  It was plenty rich and creamy just the way it was, with the tastes and smells of the cool, crisper weather to come, bringing back childhood memories of kicking up piles of fallen leaves while walking home from school.  This really is my favorite season.

Ingredients (minus the goat cheese)

Wild Mushroom Risotto

Prep Time: about an hour

Serving Size: 6 primi piatti (first course) portions or 4 adult dinner-sized portions

Ingredients:

For the Wild Mushroom Mixture:

1 oz. dried Porcini Mushrooms, reconstituted in boiling water

2 tsp. Extra Virgin Olive Oil

2 tsp. Unsalted Butter

1 Tbsp. Shallot, minced

1 large clove Garlic, minced

2 c. mixed Mushrooms (cremini, portabello, shitake, button, or any other variety)

1 sprig fresh Thyme

1 tsp. Salt

1/4 tsp. Black Pepper, freshly ground

For the Risotto:*

1 Tbsp. Extra Virgin Olive Oil

2 tsp. Unsalted Butter

1 small Onion, finely diced

1 1/2 c. Aborio or Carnaroli rice

1/2 c. dry White Wine

3 c. Chicken Stock, warmed

1 Tbsp. fresh Thyme leaves

1 tsp. Salt

1/4 tsp. Black Pepper, freshly ground

1 tsp. Unsalted Butter

1/3 c. Parmesan cheese, grated, plus more for serving

Assembly:

Cooked mushrooms

Steep dried porcini mushrooms in boiling water.  In the time it takes to chop up the other mushrooms, the shallots, and the garlic, the porcini will have softened and be ready to cook.  Heat a sauté pan with the olive oil and the butter.  Once the butter has melted and is frothy, add the shallots to the pan.  Cook for one minute, until they start to be come translucent.  Add the garlic and cook for one minute more, as the garlic releases its aroma.  Make sure to that neither the shallots nor the garlic burn or take on any color by stirring the mixture every few seconds.

Add the chopped mushrooms, the reconstituted porcinis, and the sprig of thyme.  Let the mushrooms cook until most of their moisture has been released.  The mushrooms can take on a bit of color but should not get golden brown.  Pour in a bit of the liquid from the porcinis (about 2 Tbsp.) and cook down the mixture until most the liquid has been absorbed into the mushrooms.  This will add an extra layer of  mushroom flavor to the finished dish.  Season with salt and pepper and set aside.

Risotto after wine has evaporated

In a large, shallow saucepan or Dutch oven, melt the butter and heat the olive oil together over low heat.  When the butter is frothy and add the onions.  Cook them for several minutes until they become soft and translucent.  Add the rice and stir to coat in the fat, making sure that each grain is covered.  Let mixture cook for about one minute, taking care that the rice does not take on any color or burn by stirring it a few times while it is cooking.  Pour in the wine, stir into the rice, and let the mixture cook until almost all of the liquid has evaporated.

Start to add chicken stock to the rice mixture 1/4 c. at a time, stirring with each addition and cooking the mixture until the liquid has mostly evaporated.  Continue to ladle the stock into the rice mixture, stirring after each addition to make sure that the rice does not stick to the bottom of the pan.  You will start to see the starch being released from the rice and its overall volume will begin to increase in size.

Getting there

After putting about 1 1/2 c. of the stock into the rice mixture, taste it to see how the risotto is progressing.  It is probably still a bit crunchy on the inside.  Continue to add stock, 1/2 c. at a time, until the rice is mostly tender with a slight resistance when bitten or al dente in texture, probably after about another cup or so of stock.  Add the mushroom mixture to the pan and fold in to incorporate everything.  Add the thyme, salt, and pepper to the mixture and stir to combine so as not to break up the mushrooms too much.

Taste the risotto to make sure the seasoning works.  If the mixture is a bit dry, add another 1/4 c. stock and stir it together.  The risotto should be creamy but not soupy with the grains still maintaining their shape; it should flow on the plate without any excess liquid (all’onda – or “like a wave” in Italian).  Remove the pan from the stove and add the cheese and the butter.  The butter might seem like a bit of overkill, but it does contribute to the creamy mouthfeel of the dish.

Finished risotto

Serve immediately with extra grated Parmesan cheese on the side and a bit of additional fresh thyme for garnish.  To make this dish even a bit more luxurious, it could also be finished with a drizzle of truffle oil.

*Kitchen Witch Tip:

When our chef-instructor was demonstrating how to make this dish, he gave the class a general ratio of 3:1, liquid to rice as the proportion to keep in mind for making it.  I almost emitted an audible squeak of dismay after he said that.  Risotto, as anyone who has made it multiple times can tell you, is a fickle beast, which is why people find it daunting to make.  I, however, love doing it and find it brings out an inner sense of culinary Zen for me.  I enjoy the whole process of stirring, watching the starch coming out of the grains, seeing the rice expand and become creamy, and then, of course, getting to eat the end results.

In this recipe, including the wine, the ratio of liquid to rice that I used was closer to 2.25:1 (o.k., yes, math nerds in my family, I know it’s actually 2.33 repeating, geeze.).  To bring it up to a higher level of creaminess, I could have gone as far as a ratio of 2.5:1.  At 3:1, as the chef had advised, the risotto would have been come a soupy mess.  When we were on a conference call yesterday, Chef Dennis Littley shared with me the advice that he was given as a young chef, “Feel the food.  It will tell you what it takes to make it complete.”  Risotto is definitely one of those dishes that does just that.

Buon appetito!

Farro Risotto with Roasted Butternut Squash and Thyme-Roasted Mushrooms

I fell in love with farro (also known as emmer) when I lived in Italy.  One day when I was miserably sick with a head cold, thousands of miles away from my family and not yet realizing how to make my own chicken soup, I went to the small store that sold mostly frozen produce that was near my apartment.  In one of the display cases was a large plastic bag of what I could determine was a vegetable soup mix.  I decided to try it.

Being sick is no fun, but it is even less fun when you live in another country and have no idea what over-the-counter product will cure your ills.  I inhaled the steam from the broth to try to open up my clogged nose.  Then, I dipped my spoon in the bowl to taste it.  The vegetables were fine, but there was something else in there that I couldn’t quite identify.  It was had a hearty, nutty taste to it.  It wasn’t exactly rice or barley, which I’d had usually had in soups.  What was it?

Turns out that it was farro, a grain, a type of wheat actually, that has been around for quite some time and one that is popular in Italian cooking, even though I had never encountered it before that day.  It is eaten in soups, risotto-style (like this recipe), and even made into pasta.  What I really like about it is that it has the stronger flavor of a brown rice with the textural consistency of a risotto rice.  It makes me feel a bit healthier about shaving a pile of cheese on a plate of it.

This recipe is completely vegetarian and has a couple of steps taking place at the same time, to speed it up.  The farro will take longer to cook than a usual risotto rice, much like brown rice takes longer than white.  Roasting the vegetables gives them a heartier flavor to match that of the farro.  The Salad with Balsamic Vinegar-Fig Reduction from last week would make a great accompaniment to the risotto.  A meal with these dishes could almost make you feel like you were in one of the more sophisticated tratorrie.



Farro Risotto with Roasted Butternut Squash and Thyme-Roasted Mushrooms

Prep time: 45 minutes
Serving Size: 4 main dish portions (6 primi piatti)

Ingredients:
3 cups butternut squash, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
2 cups cremini mushrooms (baby portabellas), cut into quarters
3 cloves garlic, smashed but left in their skins
2 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. extra virgin olive oil
2 springs thyme
1 small onion, finely minced
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 c. farro (also known as emmer)
1/2 c. dry white wine
2 c. vegetarian vegetable stock
3 springs thyme, leaves removed (about 1 tsp.)
salt
pepper
Grana Padano cheese, grated

Assembly:
Preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit (see Measurements & Conversions for other temperatures).  Prepare two roasting pans, each with one Tbsp. of olive oil.  Put the mushrooms into one pan and the squash into the other.  In the pan with the mushrooms, put two springs of thyme and one clove of garlic.  In the pan with the squash, put in the other two cloves of garlic.  Place them in the oven.  Set the timer for 20 minutes.

In the meantime, in a large heavy saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter and the olive oil together.  When mixture is foamy, add onion to the pan.  Let it cook for five minutes, until the onions start to become translucent.  Add the farro and stir so that each grain becomes coated in the butter and oil.  Let cook for about a minute.

Pour in the wine and cook over low heat until almost all of the liquid has evaporated.  At this point, start to add the vegetable stock a couple of tablespoons at a time, stirring to incorporate into the risotto and letting it cook down until it is almost evaporated before adding more stock.  Although this step seems fiddly, it is important to continue to do it to break down the starches in the grain to achieve the desired creamy consistency.

At some point during the add-stock-and-stir phase, the timer for the oven will go off.  Check the mushrooms and the squash.  The former are probably done.  Remove them from the oven at set aside.  The squash will probably need about 10 more minutes to cook, but check them to see if they are tender enough to push all the way through with a fork.  When they are that consistency, remove them from the oven.  Set aside.

After you have added the second-to-last portion of the stock and the mushrooms and squash are out of the oven, remove the thyme stalk from the mushrooms and remove the garlic from both pans.  Peel and mash the garlic and add to the farro.  Add the last portion of stock along with the mushrooms and squash and all the liquid from the baking pans.

Stir everything together to incorporate.  At this point, add the thyme leaves and taste the dish to test the seasoning.  Add salt and pepper as needed.  Serve immediately with a dusting of Gran Padano.

Buon appetito!

Risotto alla Gorgonzola

Having visitors provides a great excuse to get to the parts of the city that one normally doesn’t get to in the course of one’s usual errands. This past week, my sister came to town for a few days. We didn’t really have a plan, per se, for things to do on this trip. I had some long-overdue things to get done and dragged her around town. In return, I also took her to someplace that I knew would be a little bit of heaven for her.

Murray’s Cheese Shopis one of those institutions in New York that is spoken of as the authority on all things for fermented dairy, much like the cheese counter at Fairway. I made sure that my sister was fully prepared to enter this notable establishment. She’s often told me that cheese is one of hers and her boyfriend’s food loves. I wanted to make sure that she enjoyed her visit.

She wasted no time in making her selections after a brief perusal. On the first time in the shop, it can be a bit overwhelming to see all the different varieties, but the staff is always helpful to offer recommendations and to provide samples. The cheeses are well labeled as to where they are from and how they might taste.

My sister grabbed several kinds of soft and hard cheeses as well as some salami to take back with her. Murray’s also has various hard sausages, cured meats, honeys, and dried fruits for sale that pair well with their other wares. In addition, the shop sells ice packs to keep everything cool for the journey back home.

We’d had kind of a large lunch that day at one of my favorite Turkish restaurants. My sister and I both wanted something a bit simpler for dinner. She had suggested a dish that she’d had when visiting me in Italy: Risotto alla Gorgonzola. I’d never made this, but the sampling of blue cheeses at Murray’s inspired me to attempt it.

Based upon my sister’s description of the dish and my own experience in making risotto, I could guess at the kind of cheese that was used. Gorgonzola is not as simple as it might seem. There are various versions from softer and creamy (younger) to more pungent and crumblier (older or more aged). It is made in the Piedmont and Lombardy regions of Italy, which are in the North. For the dish that I made, I used two different types: a Gorgonzola-Mascarpone layered type and a creamy Gorgonzola. These melted well into the risotto and gave it a richness with a subtle and not too overwhelming blue cheese finish.

Gorgonzola and Mascarpone in layers 

Creamy Gorgonzola

Risotto alla Gorgonzola

Serving Size: 4 appetizer portions or 2 main dish portions

Prep Time: about an hour

Ingredients:
1 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1/3 c. finely minced yellow onion
1 Tbsp. finely minced garlic
1 c. carnaroli rice
1/2 c. dry white wine
2 c. low-sodium chicken stock (warmed)
1/8 lb. Gorgonzola-Mascarpone layered torta
1/8 lb. soft Gorgonzola (called Dolce or Cremificato), cut into small cubes
1 pinch salt
1 pinch freshly ground black pepper
1 Tbsp. minced fresh parsley

Assembly:
In a large saucepan or Dutch oven, melt butter until foamy over low heat. Add onion and cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally and watching carefully so that it doesn’t get browned or burnt. Add garlic and cook for 2 minutes more so that it is softened and the onion is translucent. The onion and garlic are meant to melt into the finished dish so that they don’t stand out against the rice.

Add the rice and stir to make sure that each grain is coated with the buttery liquid. Cook for 30 seconds before adding the wine. Stir to incorporate the wine and cook until it is just about completely absorbed into the rice. Pour in about 2 tablespoons of the warm chicken stock and incorporate it into the rice mixture.

Continue to add the stock several tablespoons at a time, stirring completely and waiting for the liquid to be completely absorbed before pouring in the next bit of stock. As the cooking continues, you will see the starch being released from the rice and the grains becoming tender and creamy. When there is about a quarter of a cup of liquid left, you might want to taste the rice to test the texture. It should be almost al dente. Finish adding in the rest of the stock and cook until it has been completely absorbed.

Once all the liquid has been incorporated, you can turn off the heat. Break up the Gorgonzola-Mascarpone and stir to blend thoroughly, leaving no lumps of cheese. Next, add the creamy Gorgonzola and stir to blend completely into the rice. The heat from the rice will melt the cheeses. After they’ve all been mixed in together, season with salt and pepper, and stir in the parsley.

Buon appetito!